Bringing Fido Home
Spay /Nueter / Breeding
Puppy Mills/Tea Cups
Pure Breds
Valley Fever
Heartworm
Tick Fever
Lyme Desease
Bite Statistics
Nutrition / Exercise / Obedience
Bringing Fido Home
Adopting a new dog is such a rewarding experience—you’ve just rescued him from a shelter or rescue group and have made the lifelong commitment to having a loyal companion. There are some things you’ll need—material and otherwise—that will make the transition easy for both you and the dog.
1. PATIENCE!! This is a given, hopefully, but you have to remember that you don’t know what this animal has been through. Especially if they’re coming from a rescue group, they’re probably confused as to why they’re being taken from their “home”—again—and they’ll need a lot of love, attention and TIME to adjust to their new surroundings.
2. Before picking up the dog, contact the rescue group or shelter and find out what you’ll need. Some groups will provide some items/food, some will not, so you’ll need to be prepared. A short and not even close to comprehensive list includes: collar, leash, food/water dishes, toys, treats, food, potty pads/newspaper (depending on how housebroken they are), and bedding. To avoid potential gastrointestinal issues, it’s a good idea to keep them on the same food because that’s what they’re used to. However, if the food they’re on (especially in some shelters) isn’t high quality, you’ll need to transition the food over from old to new by blending it over a period of days.
3. If you know your new pet’s breed (or mixes of breeds!), do some research! Go online, go to the library, and read up on your new companion. Taking the time to find out more about their breed and habits may save time and trouble in the long run.
4. Also, find out if your new dog has been to a veterinarian. If he is current on all of his/her medical needs, it’s still a good idea to find a vet in the event of an emergency. If you are adopting your dog from a rescue, they will provide you with all of the vet care sheets. Ask your neighbors and friends with pets who they would recommend and make an appointment for a general exam—this way, you and your new pet can meet the vet and make sure he/she is right for you.
5.Once the dog is in his/her new home—your home!--, you’ll need to take the time to show him/her around. Show him/her where his/her food and water will be kept, walk him/her around the yard, and spend a lot of time talking to him/her in a soothing voice and just let him/her feel your presence. Remember that he/she’s going to be overwhelmed and may not be as happy as you are, so give him/her time to adjust.
6. During the first few weeks, you’ll probably want to confine your new pet. Not only because you’re not sure if he/she’ll be destructive, but also because he/she’s in a new, big house and that actually makes dogs more anxious. And an anxious dog is unpredictable!! Until you’re sure of his/her behavior while you’re gone, you’ll want to confine him/her to a small area of the house—such as the kitchen or a bathroom--, or even a size-appropriate kennel.
7. Remember to be CONSISTENT. Don’t allow him/her to do some things sometimes and then reprimand him/her for it other times. Don’t ever yell or hit—you can use a loud, stern voice with the same effect. Be patient and reward good behavior, either with a treat or some other positive reinforcement. And again, you have to remember that you don’t know what type of environment he/she came from, so don’t push something on him/her that he/she’s reluctant to do, and don’t get upset if it doesn’t go as quickly/well as you’d like it to---both of you need time and patience to adjust!
If you follow these simple tips, it will make for a good adjustment period for everyone. If you have any questions or concerns, don’t hesitate to contact your vet or the rescue you adopted your dog from, most rescues are happy to help out. If necessary, invest in a good, positive obedience class. You’ve made a lifelong commitment to this animal, and it’s up to you to make sure that he gets the love and support he needs for the adoption to be successful. Good luck and good loving!
Spay / Nueter / Breeding
Spay or neuter your pet, and he/she will be healthier and happier.
Many great websites are out there promoting spay/neuter. We all know that spaying and neutering is the best way to stop pet overpopulation. What if you just don't care about anything but your own pet? (don't we all know people like that?) This is the page to read! Our goal is to give undisputable facts, backed up by the research. You can't argue with science!
What is a spay?
Removal of the uterus and ovaries from a female animal. It involves entering the abdomen, and has become a standard, outpatient procedure in most vet clinics.
What is a neuter?
Removal of the testicals from the scrotal pouch of a male animal. Adult dogs that are neutered may still have an empty sac visible. Along with the testes are removed the ductus deferens and epididymis.
Reasons to spay a female dog or cat:
- Spaying a female dog or cat reduces hormone fluctuations, which can help control any other conditions the dog or cat may have such as diabetes, epilepsy, or demodex mange.Fossum, et al. Small Animal Surgery, 2nd Edition, 2002. p616
- 50% of dog mammary tumors (breast lumps) and 90% of cat mammary tumors are malignant (cancerous). Ogilvie, Moore. Managing the Veterinary Cancer Patient: a practice manual. 1995
- If a female dog is spayed before her first heat cycle, her risk of developing breast cancer is only 0.05%. If she is spayed after having only one heat cycle, her risk of breast cancer jumps to 8%. If she is spayed after her second heat cycle, that risk becomes 26%... that's more than 1 in 4! Spaying a dog after her third heat cycle may reduce the risk of mammary carcinoma (breast cancer) but not appreciably. The take-home message: intact female dogs are 50 times more likely to get breast cancer than a dog spayed prior to her first heat cycle. Ogilvie, Moore. Managing the Veterinary Cancer Patient: a practice manual. 1995
- Cats that are spayed prior to 1 year of age have a mere 0.6% risk of developing mammary carcinoma, which is a very aggressive, often fatal, cancer in cats. More than 99% of cats diagnosed with mammary carcinoma are intact (not spayed). Fossum, et al. Small Animal Surgery, 2nd Edition, 2002. p632-633
- Pyometra is an infection and accumulation of pus inside the uterus. It can cause the liver and kidneys to fail, and can be fatal if the animal is not spayed as treatment. If the uterus is weak and ruptures either before or during surgery, this leads to death in 57% of dogs. It is rare for a spayed dog to develop pyometra. Fossum, et al. Small Animal Surgery, 2nd Edition, 2002. p644
- Spaying prevents estrous, or the heat cycle. Dogs that no longer cycle rarely get vaginal prolapse/hyperplasia or vaginal cysts, as these are hormonally based. Fossum, et al. Small Animal Surgery, 2nd Edition, 2002. p645
- Early spaying can effectively reduce dog to dog aggression. Hart BL. Effects of neutering and spaying on the behavior of dogs and cats: questions and answers about practical concerns. J Am Vet Med Assoc 198:1204-5, 1981a
It has become common knowledge that spaying a dog effectively stops the occurance of messy, bloody heat cycles, and the animal cannot reproduce.
Common sense tell us that if an animal does not have a uterus, she cannot develop cancer of the uterus, uterine torsion, infection (pyometra), inflammation (metritis), or prolapse! If she does not have ovaries, she cannot develop ovarian cancer!
Reasons to neuter/castrate a male dog or cat:
- Neutered dogs do not have testicles, meaning they cannot get testicular cancer. There are 3 common types of testicular tumor: Sertoli cell tumors, Leydig cell tumors, and seminomas.Sertoli cell tumors, ironically, secrete estrogen, a female hormone. Dogs with hyperestrogenism display female physical and sexual traits. Leydig cell tumors can cause hernias and prostatic disease.Fossum, et al. Small Animal Surgery, 2nd Edition, 2002. p660
- Neutering a male dog will effectively reduce or eliminate objectionable behaviors such as urine marking, mounting, and roaming. Some dogs show decreased aggression after castration as well. Neilson JC, et al. J Am Vet Med Assoc 211:180, 1997
- Benign Prostatic Hyperplasia is an enlargement of the prostate gland that can cause difficulty defecating or urinating. The enlargement is hormonally controlled, and neutering the dog is the definitive cure for this. If a dog is already neutered, he cannot develop BPH. Kraweic, Heflin. Study of Prostatic Disease in Dogs: 177 cases. J Am Vet Med Assoc 100:1119, 1992.
- Prostatic abscesses are painful and cause systemic signs. This condition affects intact, non-neutered dogs. Mullen, et al. Results of Surgery and postoperative complications in 92 dogs treated for prostatic absessation by a multiple penrose drain technique. J Am Anim Hosp Assoc 26:369, 1990
- Neutering can prevent perianal adenomas and perineal hernias, two painful and unsightly conditions. Fossum, et al. Small Animal Surgery, 2nd Edition, 2002. p619
- If a male cat is neutered, fighting decreases by 88%, urine spraying decreases by 87%, and roaming decreases by 92%. Hart BL, CooperLC. Factors relating to urine spraying and fighting in pre-pubertally gonadectomized cats. J Am Vet Med Assoc 184:1255-1258. 1994.
- Early neutering can effectively prevent interdog aggression. Voith VL. Intermale Aggression in the dog. Mod Vet Practice 61(3):256-258, 1980e.
Consider the costs!
Paying for a single spay or neuter operation can be considered an investment. One preventative surgery is much less expensive than paying for surgery and medicine for a life-threatening condition, not to mention the suffering of your pet!
"But no child's life is complete without experiencing a birth"
We've all heard the "old wives tales" about spaying and neutering. People think they must breed if their dog is purebred, or watching a birth will actually teach their kids something about life. These, of course, are ludicrous, but one "crazy notion" actually has some truth to it! Research shows that spaying or neutering dogs and cats can cause their energy needs to drop by about 25% (Root MV, et al. Res Vet Sci 1996:57(3)317-374). Furthermore, another study showed that altered dogs and cats consume more food (Fettman MJ et al, Res Vet Sci 1997: 62:131-136). This is not a good combination in terms of weight control! So how do you keep the weight off? Measure what your pet eats, consult your veterinarian about the right food (type and quantity) for your pet, and get out and exercise! Since about 30% of pets in this country are overweight, many great diets and health programs are now available through your veterinarian!
Besides the many health benefits, spaying or neutering your pet will help the pet overpopulation problem! Every year, over a million dogs and cats are killed in shelters. These are healthy, loving animals who simply had bad luck--no one wanted them. You can help solve this problem very easily by having your pet spayed or neutered. It's healthier for your pet, and you can be confident you did not contribute to the pet overpopulation problem.
Some facts about dog breedingPlease share these with anyone you know that is considering breeding their dog...it could save a life!Breeding your dog and having a litter of puppies seems like a relatively effortless task. You get all the cute puppies, and you can make a few bucks in the process! All you need is a female dog with "papers" and you're in business!This could not be farther from the truth!Having just one litter of puppies is seriously risking your dog's health, maybe even her life! Shouldn't you know of the risks involved before doing this with your dog? "Papers" such as AKC or UKC registration does not mean the dog will get a good home. It means uneducated people may be more apt to want the dog. All they are is a good selling point. Papers do not reflect the quality of a puppy, simply the fact that someone paid money to register the animal.Many genetic problems that run rampant in breeds are not readily apparent in young mothers and fathers. You could realistically produce very sick puppies, and then it's your responsibility to either spend a LOT of money fixing them, or have them euthanized. Neither option is very fun.One in four homeless dogs is purebred. Read that statistic again. Then ask yourself why on earth you are breeding your dog. Do we need more purebred dogs with AKC papers to find homes for? Puppies are easy to give away, but once they lose the initial cuteness, they become unpopular. Many die in shelters.On a similar note, contact a breed rescue representative for the breed of dog you want to "produce," and ask how many purebred, papered dogs they have waiting for homes. The numbers are staggering.There are ten times as many dogs as there are homes in America. Would you be doing anyone a favor besides yourself?If altruism, or simply the good of the dogs you are producing, does not make you reconsider, please consider the health risks you are placing your breeding bitch under. Even if you want to just make a buck, you'll still care if your "money-maker" dog lives or dies, or is able to ever reproduce again.There are plenty of healthy, loving dogs looking for homes; few will find one!
Please don't make more that have to die! Teacup DogsAs a rescue, we are amazed at so many people wanting to buy a so-called "Teacup" puppy. Thus the reason we are writing this piece concerning our views about the phenomenon of so many people wanting a "so-called teacup" puppy.
Puppies aren't toys; they are living breathing babies that need love and attention, not to spend half of their life in someone's HOT purse!
Please take the time to read this and educate yourself! The lives of many little dogs depend on you educating yourself, and others, not to buy into this phase.
Thank you for taking the time to read this!
This is a topic that most assuredly needs to be brought to the attention of perspective puppy buyers.
Let's start out by saying "THEREIS NO SUCH THING AS A "TEACUP" PUPPY".
With that in mind, let me say this; It seems as though there is a plethora of people who are insistent on buying tiny puppies in the 2 to 4 pound range. Also commonly referred to as a "Teacup puppy".
The word "Teacup" has been used to merely describe the size of a puppy, meaning it is very small and will probably be under the standard size which is 4 to 7 pounds for the Toy Group, Yorkshire Terrier breed. We cannot imagine anyone wanting anything smaller than that! Their bones are VERY fragile and can be broken by jumping off of a coach, falling off of a bed, being stepped on or worse.
Many breeders, while tacking a whooping price on a puppy, "claim" to breed so called "teacups" as if they were a breed all their own. Don't be fooled! They are NOT a breed of their own.
If a breeder says they specialize in "teacups" RUN, RUN, RUN for the hills! Most "TEACUP" puppies are in reality, a premature puppy.
Most females are bred on the ninth through the fifteenth day of their heat cycles. Eggs can be fertilized for up to 72 hours after any of these breeding's. Therefore, it is possible to have puppies conceived up to a week or so younger than the puppies first conceived in a litter. However, when the first puppies conceived are mature and ready to be born, labor starts and all the puppies will be born, no matter when they were fertilized.
Some of the problems that may be encountered are both genetic and congenital in these tiny babies and the list is a long one.
The risk of open fontanels (soft spot from the cranial bone not forming), portosystemic shunts (PSS- abnormal vessel that allows blood to bypass the liver. As a result the blood is not cleansed by one of the bodies filters: the liver.), hypoglycemia, cardiac problems, collapsing trachea, luxating patellas, Leggs Calves Perthes disease, seizures, hydroencephaly, blindness and digestive problems can be increased in these tiny babies.
Problems such as respiratory problems can remain or worsen throughout their lives. These babies frequently are so fragile that they do not live more than a few years. There have been several tiny Yorkies as adults who still had open fontanels and their owners had to carry nourishment with them all the time. Their vets have felt it unsafe to give a full dose of vaccine so the puppies had to get several injections to be on the safe side.
There is no such thing as a "tea cup" Yorkshire Terrier, Maltese, Poodle, or any other breed for that matter. They simply do not exist. "Tea-cup" is just a marketing ploy given by unethical and unscrupulous breeders to drive up the price of their puppies!
So called "Teacups" fetch anything from $1000 to $10,000! This is ridiculous and shameful! There are a lot of chronically, unhealthy puppies because unscrupulous breeders and puppy mills are inbreeding. Some poor darlings only live for a very, very short time!
They take the little teeny, tiny Yorkies and they breed 2 1/2 pounders with 3 pounders ... well, they’re playing with genetics. You should NEVER breed a female of any breed less than 5 pounds.
PLEASE educate yourselves before buying a tiny puppy whether it is a Yorkie or any other breed. You could be in for months or years of heartbreak not to mention staggering veterinarian bills
Puppy Mills
Where did that doggie in the window come from?
A puppy mill, where else?
Pet store employees will tell you anything to sell a puppy at their inflated prices. But they won't tell you that a lot of these dogs:
- Are inbred
- Carry falsified AKC registration papers
- Do NOT meet the breed standard
- Carry preventable genetic defects
By buying a dog from a pet shop, you are sentencing its parents to a life in the hell of a puppy mill. Pet shop workers will tell you "the dogs come from private breeders." This is true, since any person who combines a male and female dog can be called a "private breeder."
Don't just take our word for it! Go to your local nall pet store or some of the other pet store chains that sell dogs and ask to see the papers where the parents came from. You'll find that most dogs come from the same "breeder." Think about it. What kind of moral person would produce litters upon litters of various breeds of puppies solely for profit? Only a puppy miller would.
Look up USDA inspection reports online, find out just how many dogs are bred by that individual. Prove it to yourself that the pet stores are supplied by puppy mills. It's very easy to do!
The AKC licenses the litters of puppy mills, as these are the registry's largest source of income. It is simply a registry, and makes no implications or guarantees about the health or quality of the dog. A 3-legged, blind and deaf, mangy golden retriever with inherited hip displasia could be registered by the AKC, and would be 100% legal and legitimate. Dateline NBC even registered a litter of kittens as AKC purebred puppies!
The AKC is a business, collecting money for registration of dogs. AKC papers mean nothing about the breed, health, or pedigree of the dog. No one from the AKC ever sees the dog, it's all forms turned in by mail, much on the "honor system." So, what good are these papers? None. It simply means someone filled out a form and paid a fee to register the dog.
Like almost everything in life, puppy mills come in all varieties: the not-so-bad, bad, and really bad. Dogs are confined to cages or runs for their entire lives with only one purpose--breeding. These dogs are never kindly touched by a human, and many never see grass, blankets, or toys. The food provided is of the lowest quality (cheapest). Shelter from the elements is often minimal, and these dogs have obviously never seen the inside of a house. The saddest thing is that much of this is licensed and approved by the Department of Agriculture. This department is also responsible for inspections, and violations are rarely enforced. Why? There are over one thousand puppy mills licensed in Missouri. Inspecting each one takes a bit of effort and manpower, which the overworked department lacks in Missouri! Then consider the illegal, unlicensed puppy mills that the Department doesn't even know about.
So, when a pet store tells you that their puppies only come from licensed and inspected breeders, they are technically correct! These places are still puppy mills, no question about it!
Puppies are taken from their mother when they are 5 to 6 weeks old and sold to brokers who pack them in crates for resale to pet stores all over the country. Almost half of the puppies do not survive the trip. Puppy mills and pet stores maximize their profits by not spending money on proper food, housing, or veterinary care. It is very common for a mill dog's teeth to be completely rotten out at six years of age! Once the breeding female's body is so run down she cannot produce live puppies anymore, she is of no more use to the miller. The mill owner will then dispose of the dog (dumping, gunshot, drowning, etc), since she is no longer an “effective producer.”
Money is the puppy millers' only concern! It's their livelihood!
Any dog that can reproduce is worth money and WILL be bred. These people will breed dogs that are missing legs, teeth, eyes, and ears. Sick dogs are bred, even if the disease will be genetically or directly passed to the puppies.
This is a business, and all that matters is that the dogs can produce live puppies to be sold.
Pet shops are supplied by puppy mills, no matter what they say! Any ethical breeder will NOT sell to a pet shop. Period.
If you answer any newspaper ads, be cautious! If there are many breeds offered, it is a “backyard breeder,” a small-scale version of a puppy mill, often unlicensed and ILLEGAL. Do not support these individuals by buying from them! They are simply unlicensed puppy mills, and the dogs suffer just as much, if not more! Truly conscientious breeders are very rare, so always be skeptical of anyone trying to make a buck by advertising AKC registered puppies in the paper.
Breeding dogs should not be for profit!
What can you do to help stop this cruelty?
Your most powerful weapon is your voice—tell people about this atrocity!
The message must get out! It is only because of the public’s unawareness that this sick business has been permitted to continue!
Tell your friends: Boycott any store that sells puppies!!!
If the pet shop goes out of business, the puppy mill will have one less place to sell their dogs, and will go out of business eventually too!
Have link to puppy mill video here lani has can email
Purebreeds:One in four dogs in US shelters is PUREBRED.
Many purebred dogs are surrendered to shelters for the same reasons mixed breeds dogs are. Therefore, many purebred rescues have been formed by people who specialize in a particular breed. They pull dogs from shelters and foster them, searching for loving homes to adopt them. Often, purebred rescue dogs can be adopted at a significantly reduced price than buying a puppy from a breeder. Many are adult dogs that are already housebroken! Several purebred rescues will also rescue mixed breed dogs that carry many characteristics of a specific breed. Below are some inks to help you in your search. Finding a rescue organization is not difficult. You'll find many by going to any search engine (ie, yahoo.com or google.com) and typing in the breed, "rescue" and your state. will give links to purbd rescues
Pit Bulls:Do not let stereotypes fool you! There are no "bad" breeds of dogs. Dogs considered "pit bulls" carry many stereotypes. Any time one of these dogs does something bad, the media makes sure we all know about it. The public never learns about the thousands of "pit bulls" that are cherished family pets, gentle with children, and excel in obedience or agility trials.Sure, these dogs require time, patience, and affection, but what dog doesn't?Unfortunately, many of these dogs are abused and exploited. They are used for entertainment and gambling in the form of dog fighting. This activity is illegal, but enforcement is very difficult.It is important to bear in mind that these dogs are not the villains, but the victims. They deserve to be rescued just as much as any other breed, from a Chihuahua to a Rottweiler.The best site on the web for information on this intriguing breed is Pit Bull Rescue Central. RRAR has helped save several pit bulls who otherwise would have died. These dogs have survived horrible abuse, yet learned to trust people after time with patient foster parents. Statistics In a report from Dekalb County Georgia, the conclusion was reached that statistics could no be used to document the dangerousness of any one breed, or the comparison of one breed to another. The 5-year study of fatal attacks from 1975-1980 lists the GSD first and "mixed breeds" second with the American Pit Bull Terrier listed 6th. A 6-year study in Palm Beach County of "most severe dog bite by breed" shows the top 10 breeds who have been identified in this comparison. 1988: APBT ranked 9th w/9 per cent of bites 1989: APBT ranked 5th w/15 per cent 1990: APBT ranked 5th w/16 per cent 1991: APBT ranked 9th w/10 per cent 1992: APBT ranked 2nd w/20.4 per cent (w/cocker spaniel showing in 1st) 1993: APBT ranked 5th w/16 per cent Some of the breeds which placed above the APBT were Dalmatians, Chows, Labs, Goldens, Rotties, Dobermans, and the afore-mentioned Cocker Spaniel. In a 1993 study, also in Palm Beach County, the bites were ranked by severity from 1 to 4 and the animal that was recorded as having inflicted the greatest number of severe bites was the domestic short-haired cat. A breed labeled as "pit bull" was in 5th place, following cat, GSD, Chow and Lab. The division of general pediatrics, emergency medicine, at Children's Hospital in Philadelphia conducted a study in 1989 as a result of a ***perceived*** increase in pit bull injuries. 12 different breed/crossbreds were identified as perpetrators, the tope four of which were GSDs, pit bulls, rottweilers and Dobermans. 54 per cent of the animals were contained and 45 per cent were provoked prior to biting (by parental report). In 1991, in Australia, the Journal of Pediatric Child Health reported that the GSD was implicated in dog bites presenting to the ER of a children's hospital and were implicated more frequently than their prevalence in the community. Finally, in an article in Pediatrics, June 1994, an article entitled "Which Dogs Bite? A case control of risk factors." concluded the following: Dog bites cause an estimated 585,000 injuries resulting in the need for medical attention yearly and children are the most frequent victims . The study sought to determine dog-specific factors independently associated with a dog biting a non-household member. (88% occur in the dog owner's yard or home or in the **adjoining** yard. 62% members of the victims' families witnessed the bite) The identified risk group are children less than 11 years old, mean age is 8, males outnumber females. Only 7 % require hospital admission. The method was to match 178 pairs of dogs selected from dogs reported to an urban animal control for a first-bite episode on a non-household member in which the victim received medical treatment. Controls were neighborhood-matched dogs with no history of biting a non-household member, selected by modified random-digit dialing.
Valley Fever
Valley Fever (VF), or Coccidioidomycosis, is reaching epidemic proportions in Arizona, affecting both people and dogs. Dogs, in fact, are even more susceptible than humans, by virtue of their closer proximity to the ground where Valley Fever spores live.
VF is a fungal infection contracted by inhaling soil-dwelling spores. When soils containing the fungus are disturbed and dust is raised, spores may be inhaled with the dust. Soil is disturbed by things like construction, digging (by dogs or humans), and wind. Dogs, known to dig and to stick their noses right into the dirt, have potential to breathe in many, many spores at a time. The microscopically small spores are found in the arid soils of the low desert regions of the southwestern U.S. In recent years, we've seen explosive population growth in Arizona and an associated increase in new home construction and extreme disturbance of the soil. The increase in the number of cases of VF seems to closely correspond to the increase in population. VF infections are more likely to occur during certain seasons. In Arizona, the highest prevalence of infections occurs June through July and from October through November.
Many dogs in this part of the country become infected with VF, but do not become visibly ill. In most cases, only a mild respiratory inflammation occurs as the dogs’ defense mechanisms wall off the organisms. However, very young puppies, older dogs, or dogs with weakened immune systems are at much higher risk to develop a more serious case of VF. In severe cases, the disease can spread throughout the lungs and invade other organs with the fungal infection. Once the spore has been breathed into the lungs, the spore transforms itself into a larger, multi-cellular structure called a spherule. The spherule grows and will eventually burst, releasing lots of small endospores. These develop into new spherules, and the cycle repeats again and again. This is how the fungus can be spread from the lungs through the bloodstream to other organs.
Valley Fever is not contagious to other pets or family members!
A person with VF cannot infect another person or a dog;
a dog with VF cannot infect another dog or a person!
VF is classified as either Primary or Disseminated disease. Primary disease, or the initial infection, is limited to the lungs and may go away on its own, or the dog may become sick enough to require medication. Early symptoms often seen in the initial stages of Valley Fever are dry, harsh cough, fever (anything over 102 is considered a fever), depression, and lack of appetite. Symptoms typically occur about 3 weeks after infection. In dogs, VF commonly spreads to other parts of the body. When this happens, the dog has what is referred to as Disseminated disease, which means that there are fungus cocci throughout the body. These dogs will almost certainly die without treatment. In disseminated disease in dogs, the bones and joints are the most frequent targets and lameness is the most common symptom. Other symptoms of disseminated disease include lack of appetite, lethargy, persistent fever, and weight loss. Occasionally, the fungal infection may reach the brain, and seizures can result.
The diagnosis of Canine Valley Fever is made by the history you give your vet, the symptoms the dog is having, and results of blood tests which measure the levels of VF antibodies produced by the dog’s immune system. Other diagnostic testing may be required, including but not limited to other blood tests, x-rays of the chest and/or any painful or swollen bones or joints, repeat antibody testing, etc.
What Can Be Done?
In most cases, dogs that develop symptomatic VF will require treatment with an anti-fungal medication. It’s a lengthy treatment, depending on the severity of the infection, but usually lasts 6-12 months, and sometimes longer. Dogs with infection that’s invaded the brain or spine may require medication for life to keep symptoms from returning. Anti-fungal medications are very expensive, but are the only way to treat the cause of this disease.
One of the most commonly prescribed antifungal medicines is ketoconazole (Nizoral) and is the least expensive of the group. It’s given orally, with food, and our most recent experiences (2/2005) are that cost of treatment with this medicine is running $30/month. A typical dose is 1 pill, twice a day. The common side effects to Nizoral include loss of appetite and vomiting, and rarely liver problems can develop. Newer antifungal drugs are itraconazole (Sporanox) and fluconazole (Diflucan). Both drugs are reported to have fewer side effects, but they can cost significantly more. Sometimes, if a dog is experiencing uncomfortable side effects on ketoconazole, the veterinarian will prescribe one of these newer drugs. Many people travel to Mexico to obtain these drugs at a lower cost.
(In the Phoenix area, there are a few Veterinary Pharmacies that offer these medications at a significant discount. While DLRR does not endorse or recommend private businesses, we have been told that a local possible source for these medications is Pet Health Pharmacy, 12012 N. 111th Ave, Youngtown, AZ 85363 , 1-800-742-0516. They have quoted prices over the phone. Consult with your veterinarian.)
, 1-800-742-0516. They have quoted prices over the phone. Consult with your veterinarian.)
The good news is that most dogs, with the appropriate medication and treatment, do recover from this disease. In fact, most dogs are acting normally, and have a very good quality of life after the first week or so of treatment with the medication. Antibody tests, also called serologies or titers, will be repeated periodically, and the results will determine the point at which the medication can be stopped.
Once a dog has been diagnosed with and treated for VF, they are probably immune for the rest of their lives from a new infection. A small percentage of dogs will die of Valley Fever, despite aggressive anti-fungal medications. These are usually dogs with severe, disseminated disease.
Because of the very regional nature of this organism, funding for research related to VF is limited. Drug companies don’t foresee enough profit in investigating or developing treatments for a disease contained within such a limited region. However, Assemblyman Roy Ashburn (R-Bakersfield) introduced new legislation in February, 2002 to provide additional funding from the state of California for scientific research towards the development of a vaccine against VF. The bill would secure $1 million to continue the Valley Fever Research Project.
If you have a dog with VF, or have further questions about VF, please consult with a veterinarian. The information contained here is for general informational purposes only and is not a substitute for professional veterinary advice or a veterinary exam. Should you have any questions about your pet's health, please call or see your veterinarian immediately.
Tick Fever
Lyme Desease
Heartworm
What exactly is heartworm disease?
Heartworm disease occurs when a dog becomes infested with a roundworm called Dirofilaria immitis. These worms actually live in the pulmonary arteries (the arteries carrying blood from the heart to the lungs to be oxygenated). When a lot of worms are present, worms may also be found in the right ventricle.
How do dogs contract these parasites?
Many people hear "worm" and think the dog must eat something to become infested. This is not the case for heartworm, which is actually transmitted by the Culex mosquito. The mosquito must feed off an animal with active heartworm disease (microfilaria circulating in the blood). These microfilaria are a stage of heartworm larvae (L1), which, once in the mosquito, develop into the infective stage (called L3) over the course of a month. The L3 migrate to the mosquito's mouthparts, allowing the mosquito to deposit one or two microfilaria into the bloodstream of another animal (i.e., a dog). These L3 larvae develop in the subcutaneous tissue, and later enter the venous system over a period of 50-70 days. At this point, the larvae molt into a final larval stage, L4. These travel to the right side of the dog's heart, where they become adult heartworms.
How will I know if my dog has heartworms?
Many people associate worms with feces, which is not the case for heartworms! This disease can only truly be diagnosed by a blood test that your veterinarian can perform. When adult heartworms are living in the dog's heart, the females secrete a uterine antigen that can be detected by a special test, called an ELISA (Enzyme Linked Immunosorbant Assay). This can be done in the veterinary office and takes only about 10 minutes. The test is very specific. The only drawback is that a certain amount of antigen (and therefore, adult worms) must be in the blood for the test to detect it.
If my dog has a negative heartworm antigen test, does that guarantee he/she does not have heartworms?
Unfortunately, no. It takes about 6 months from the time the mosquito bites the dog to the time the adult heartworms are secreting detectable antigen, which is what makes the test positive. For example, if a dog was infected three months ago, and is not kept on heartworm preventative, he/she can be infected with the disease, but will have a negative test result. Even if a dog has a negative heartworm test and is immediately started on heartworm preventative, he/she can still have a positive test up to 6 months later! The L3 larvae which are injected into the dog's blood by the mosquito will "swim around" for about 6 weeks. Then they develop into L4 larvae, which migrate to the heart and become adult heartworms, which secrete antigen that the ELISA heartworm test can detect. The preventatives used today are very effective at killing the L3, so if given once a month, your dog is protected (you are within that 6 week window of maturation to L4). However, after that 6 week length of time, the larvae are now L4, and the preventative is not very effective in killing that stage. You may not know this until your dog has a positive heartworm test a few months later!
Does heartworm have any signs I should watch for?
Only severe infestations will affect a dog so much as to cause clinical signs. When the worm load gets so high that the blood cannot pass through the heart and pulmonary arteries, dogs will most frequently present with a cough. They will not be able to exercise as much as they used to, and some will lose weight and act lethargic. If your veterinarian takes radiographs (X-rays), the dog may have an enlarged heart. The worms may be seen on ultrasound as well. Heartworm disease can cause a variety of other syndromes as well, which your veterinarian can check for as appropriate. The goal of the heartworm antigen test is to detect the disease early (before clinical signs appear), so treatment will have greater chances of success.
Is there a way to vaccinate against heartworm?
There is no vaccine like that for rabies or distemper per se, but there is a safe and effective means to prevent heartworm in dogs. Many drugs have come on the market in the last decade with very similar mechanisms of action. These drugs, often tasty pills, are given to the dog once a month. They will effectively kill all migrating L3 larvae in the dog, which will prevent the disease from progressing. Some examples of monthly heartworm preventative include Ivermectin (Heartgard), Selamectin (Revolution), and Milbemycin (Interceptor and Sentinel). A new shot has been approved recently, called Pro-heart-6, which is injectable Moxidectin that is gradually released over the course of 6 months. The monthly heartworm preventatives have the added benefit of other drugs to kill intestinal parasites, such as roundworms, hookworms, and whipworms.
Can heartworm be transmitted to other people or pets in the household?
No! Heartworm is not contagious, so animals can be housed with a heartworm positive dog with no risk. Heartworm disease essentially does not happen in humans. Heartworm can only be transmitted via a mosquito bite. (Additionally, pregnant females have been shown in some studies to transmit the disease to their puppies.) Along with dogs, the other two species highly susceptible to heartworm is the ferret and the California Sea Lion.
Is there a cure for heartworm disease?
Fortunately, many newer, safer cures have emerged in the last decade. Treatment must kill the worms slowly and gradually, since they are living in the heart, and, as they die, they progress to the lung. These worms can measure up to four inches long, and that's a lot for the body to naturally reabsorb through the immune system's macrophages! Treating heartworm disease is therefore a risky endeavor, since the dead worms may lodge in the lung, causing a thromboembolism (a blood clot). The most commonly used treatment is Immiticide, an injection into the lumbar (lower back) muscles of the dog. There are many different schedules for administration, depending upon the health of the dog, the stage of the disease, and your veterinarian's personal preference. Immiticide is designed to slowly kill the adult worms. It is important for the dog to have complete rest for no less than 6 weeks during the treatment, since increasing the heart rate will increase the risk of complications, such as pulmonary thromboembolism, which can be harmful and sometimes fatal. If the dog has an exceptionally high load of adult worms, one treatment option is physical removal of the worms. This can only be done by a specialist, and is a very long, invasive procedure. However, with the worms removed, the risk of thromboembolism is greatly reduced. Either form of treatment is expensive, making prevention the ideal choice.
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